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Traditional Chinese clothing is quite comfortable and elegant.

The original culture of the mysterious East and the centuries-old traditions of European countries have always been attracted to each other, like two opposite poles. Designers invariably use oriental motifs in creating fashion collections. One of the brightest representatives of the East with a unique history is China. Clothing, like many other things, is a kind of emblem of the great Chinese state. Of course, the national costume of the Celestial Empire is a real bright holiday that invariably attracts everyone to become its participant, trying on an unusual and conceptual Chinese style.

A bit of history

The history of Chinese clothing dates back to the beginning of the emergence of Chinese civilization. Each historical milestone in China is marked by the glorious rule of dynasties that have left an indelible mark on the history of the great state. The dominance of one or another dynasty had an impact not only on the political system, traditions and culture of the Celestial Empire. Even in the national costume of the inhabitants of China, some changes were introduced in the form of the prevailing colors and decor features.

At all times, the Chinese costume was luxurious and bright, distinguished by an abundance of rich decor. But during the reign of one or another imperial family, the outfit had some differences.

For example, during the reign of the Qin and Han dynasties, clothing was characterized by excessive conservatism.

Historical fact: it was during the reign of the Han Dynasty that the traditional Chinese Hanfu outfit was born, as the traditional costume of the imperial family. In the people, he dressed for all formal and festive events. During the Tang Dynasty, luxury was welcomed in a suit.

Representatives of the Ming and Snu dynasties were lovers of sophisticated, elegant and graceful clothing.

During the Qin Dynasty, the style of clothing was somewhat fancy and intricate.

After the end of the era of the Chinese monarchy in the 30s of the twentieth century, the clothing style also underwent some changes. But one thing is always the same: China's clothes are always bright, original, bold and modest at the same time.

Features of the Chinese costume

Like any national costume, the Chinese outfit has its own distinctive features, which form its own special and unique style:

• The use of predominantly natural fabrics with a smooth and shiny texture.
• Lack of congestion with details (pockets, draperies, many buttons).
• Bright and juicy shades.
• An abundance of fantasy handmade prints.
• Both men's and women's suits have contrasting piping.

A distinctive feature of Chinese clothing is the stand-up collar. Men's shirts, women's blouses and dresses stand out as such an element. Chinese-style outfits are always appropriate. Such clothes will not go unnoticed both in everyday life and at an exquisite social event or youth party.

Men's clothing

The traditional costume of a resident of the Celestial Empire consisted of trousers, which were called "ku", and a shirt. At the same time, men's pants were traditionally hidden under long clothes, since defiantly showing them was considered bad form.

The cut of these trousers was wide, slightly baggy, tied with a sash. They were considered "lower" clothing and were sewn from simple hemp and cotton fabric. Separately, men's leggings were worn, which were attached to the belt with ribbons. They were called "taoku", which means "pants cover". In the cold season, Chinese men put on quilted trousers, warmed with dense taoku on cotton wool. The colors of these trousers were soft, pastel. By the way, men's Chinese trousers are always worn at the waist.

Men's shirts

Stylish shirts in the style of mysterious China do not lose their popularity not only in their homeland, but also among European men. What is the phenomenon of such active demand? The answer lies in the simultaneous rigor of cut and originality. In addition, since the time of the Great Empire, the tailoring of a men's shirt and any other clothing has been regulated at the state level. That is why Chinese clothes are always of high quality, synthetics are rarely found among the materials, most often these are natural fabrics. The cut of the shirt is simple, but it is in it that the originality of the model lies. As a rule, summer shirts that emphasize Chinese style are single-breasted and short. They are worn by men.

The traditional shirt in China is called "tangzhuang", after the costume of the Tang people. This is because the idea of ​​such a shirt was born precisely during the reign of the great Tang Dynasty. On top of the shirts, they usually put on a long caftan or robe.

Such shirts are sewn according to the prototype of the clothes of the gallant Chinese officers and have three features:

Today, the color scheme of a Chinese-style shirt can be anything. Most often, monophonic and calm shades are preferred. In ancient times, such shirts were bright, the red color of masculinity and courage prevailed, clothes were manually decorated with embroidery with golden dragons. Today, such a shirt can represent both casual style and strict business style.

Women's clothing

Chinese style in women's clothing is always new and interesting. That is why designers use Chinese motifs to create unusual and original collections imbued with the spirit of the East.

Traditionally, Chinese attire among women had a certain classification. Depending on belonging to a particular class, the costume was made of various fabrics. So, the inhabitants of the empire with an average income sewed everyday clothes of their cotton or hemp fabric. If a woman belonged to a noble family or to the aristocracy, then the outfit was sewn from natural silk with rich decor in the form of gold embroidery or inlaid with precious stones and pearls.

By the way, according to the principle of estates, men's shirts, trousers and robes were also sewn. Women's clothing in the style of the Middle Kingdom and today has the following features:

• Dresses, jackets, trousers and skirts have a tapered cut and slits on the sides;
• Blouses and jackets are decorated with a fastener in the form of air loops. Such a highlight of the Chinese costume is also characteristic of men's shirts and jackets.
• Casual women's clothing has simple and clear forms, making each outfit refined and elegant. The only exception to the rule is the national Chinese wedding dress.

The Chinese national dress is not as versatile as the traditional clothing of other peoples of the world. China promotes diminutiveness and elegance, so fragile women are the first choice. But modern designers, taking the idea of ​​a Chinese costume as a basis, make some adjustments, creating truly universal models.

The dress

National. It is characterized by a strict cut and a deaf collar-stand. Such an outfit is a skillful combination of chastity and attractive seductiveness, because the tight-fitting cut and side slits emphasize all the charm and elegance of the female figure. Such a truly Chinese style is not overlooked today even by Hollywood stars, demonstrating it in evening dresses at special events and red carpets.

The now popular qipao outfit was born in the Chinese province of Manchuria. Initially, the dress was a long robe with a wide cut, long sleeves and slits on the sides for ease of walking. The first qipao were not graceful or refined, but rather resembled a hoodie. The modern qipao outfit was born as a result of a design experiment, when the artists decided to bring the original Chinese fashion as close as possible to the European one. So, as a result of evolution, qipao has changed, the cut resembles a sheath dress. Only the characteristic Chinese stand-up collar and side slits have become unchanged. Today, the national dress of China in this form positions the qipao dress.

Qipao can be mini, midi or maxi, dressed as a shirt or tunic under tight trousers. This outfit is perfect for both casual wear and going out. In order for the dress to fit exactly on the figure, namely, this is the idea of ​​​​qipao, it is necessary to pay attention to the fabric of execution. Most often, dense natural silk is taken as the basis, then the dress does not lose its shape and does not stretch when worn.

wedding dress

The Chinese wedding dress is an incredibly refined and delicate outfit. By the way, the traditional color of a bride in China is bright red. Usually such a red dress is embroidered with gold. It is believed that it is the combination of red and gold colors that brings good luck in family life and wealth. According to the traditions of Northern China, the wedding dress has a tight-fitting style and a deaf stand-up collar. According to the traditions of the southern Chinese provinces, the wedding attire consists of numerous skirts that are worn one on top of the other, as well as a fitted jacket.

A groom's suit in China usually consists of a plain shirt, jacket and trousers. An obligatory element is a stand-up collar. In ancient times, the groom's outfit was also red and richly decorated with embroidery. As patterns for the wedding dress of the bride and groom, golden birds were used - a symbol of a happy marriage, flowers - the happiness and good luck of the newlyweds. Today it is a more familiar European version of the costume, but with Chinese elements.

Skirts

The traditional national skirt is called plakhta. In ancient times, it was an element of the wardrobe of a woman from the middle or upper class. Poor women could not wear a plakhtu skirt. Later, from everyday wear, such a skirt passed into the category of a formal costume, which a woman wore only on special occasions. By the way, in ancient China, as part of the wardrobe of valiant warriors, there were also men's plakhts, which were called "shan". Both men's and women's plakhtas were sewn from two rectangular cuts of fabric, which were sewn to a wide belt. Both women's and men's plaques looked like an apron with two smooth and dense panels, were made in yellow and red colors, symbolized the Earth and fertility, and therefore were decorated with embroidery in the form of an ornament made of grains.

Jackets

A traditional detail of the Chinese costume is a jacket or mandarin jacket. Such an element of the wardrobe is loved today by both business men and women for its expressive Chinese notes and original style.

It is distinguished by a strict cut, a deaf stand-up collar, and a frequent row of buttons. Instead of a clasp, Chinese-style air loops are often used. A man's jacket or jacket is most often devoid of pockets and other details that overload it. Under it, you can wear both a classic shirt and a model in Chinese style. Women's mandarin jacket usually has wide sleeves and a loose, straight cut. The collar is in the form of a small stand or is completely absent. Fasteners are usually arranged asymmetrically on the jacket. The jacket is made of lightweight fabric, but always lined to keep its unusual shape. A jacket in Chinese style will always emphasize oriental femininity and elegance.

Hats

According to the rules of Chinese etiquette, established in ancient times, men always had to cover their heads. The Chinese are a people with imagination. Therefore, a great variety of hats were invented for different occasions, for different ages and social status. For young men - the heirs of a noble aristocratic family, richly decorated men's caps were intended. Upon reaching adulthood in China, a young man at the age of 20 underwent a whole ceremony of putting on a guanli headdress.

The emperor had a hat with a complex multi-tiered design, which was called "mian". Its entire design was symbolic, each, even the smallest detail, personified something. For commoners and working inhabitants of the Celestial Empire, male cone-shaped hats were intended, which were woven from reeds, rice straw or reeds.

In the cold season, felt caps were worn. Women in China did not have a tradition of wearing hats. Only at a wedding or on other exceptionally solemn occasions did women put on fengguan, complex in shape and design, which means “phoenix hat”. Fengguan was in the form of a fantasy crown richly inlaid with gold and precious stones. Instead of a headdress, the wealthy women wore wigs, which were made from silk threads, ribbons, wool and even sea grass.

Fabrics and patterns

China is considered to be the birthplace of silk. The ancient Chinese believed that silk was not only an incredibly beautiful material. Until now, there is an opinion that in the process of rubbing tissue against the skin, a person can be cured of many diseases. Therefore, the fame of such a valuable and unusual material quickly spread throughout the world. Silk became the main fabric in which the national clothes of the Middle Kingdom were performed. In addition to silk, Chinese craftswomen used cotton, hemp, linen, and even bamboo fibers.

As in any national culture, in China since ancient times there has been symbolism, which was embodied in patterns and ornaments that decorated national clothes. but.

The ancient Chinese believed that each pattern applied to clothes could protect envious people from evil thoughts or endow them with some features. For example, bamboo personified wisdom and stamina, a snake - wisdom, a turtle - longevity, and a butterfly - immortality. The lotus flower was an ancient sacred symbol, the source of Life, and the famous Chinese dragon symbolized a good start, as well as imperial power.

Color palette

The color scheme in the Celestial Empire at all times played an important role. Like patterns, colors were also symbolically chosen:

• Red is the supreme color of China, a symbol of Fire and the Sun, but always in a positive way. Red clothes were traditionally worn for the holidays. He symbolized joyful mood.
  Traditional Chinese festive attire
• Yellow is a symbol of the center of the world, that is, of China itself. In addition, yellow is the color of imperial power, fertility and ripening bread. Graceful green Chinese attire

During the reign of various powerful dynasties, the main colors in China were a variety of shades, based on the main philosophical thought and beliefs. So, the color of the Zhou dynasty was red, as a symbol of mighty fire, which is higher than gold. But during the Qin dynasty, blue prevailed, as a symbol of water that can extinguish fire.

The color and quality of the fabric is the only thing that visually showed the social position and status of a person in China. The rich inhabitants of the Celestial Empire chose bright and juicy shades, the poor - more simple and dull.

The Tang Dynasty is the most famous in the world for the splendor and prosperity of China during its reign. It was an era of luxury, femininity, grace and admiration for Her Majesty Beauty. The colors of clothing in that period resembled sparkling gems: purple, turquoise, blue, crimson, green.

The traditional clothing of China is an extraordinary combination of conservatism, minimalism, luxury and elegant sophistication. In addition, it is convenient and practical, which is one of the determining factors when choosing a style. Wearing clothes in the style of the Middle Kingdom, we not only pay tribute to modern fashion and emphasize the original oriental style. Such a stylized Chinese costume is always expressive and will not go unnoticed by true connoisseurs of fine taste.

Ancient Chinese civilization arose at the turn of the II-III millennium BC. in the Yellow River basin. It existed until 220 AD. when the Han empire collapsed. Until the second half of the 1st c. BC. China developed in isolation from other countries. China consisted of city-states, among which the city of Shang was the most significant.
The ancient Chinese wore several clothes, as the climate was harsh in the north, and intense heat and cold alternated in the south.
Two thousand years before our era, the Chinese knew how to make colored silk fabric, thin fabrics from hemp and cotton.

Men's suit

The underwear in Ancient China was trousers (“ku”) and a shirt. Pants were hidden under long clothes, as it was considered indecent to show them. They were wide, with a very low step, hung behind a bag, girdled with a sash. They were sewn from hemp and silk fabrics, later - from cotton. The Chinese wore leggings: separate legs, which were attached to the belt with ribbons. They were called "taoku" - "pants cover". The Chinese were saved from the cold by quilted trousers with cotton and cotton-lined leggings worn on top.
The upper shoulder clothing (“and”) were swing double-breasted or single-breasted robes and sweaters. Outerwear was wrapped on the right side and tied. It was believed that only barbarians plowed on the left side. The sleeves were wide (the average sleeve width was 240 centimeters). During work, the sleeves were tied with a special ribbon that crossed over the chest.
In winter, the Chinese wore several robes or lined clothes at once - “jiapao”, and sometimes wore a dress quilted on wadding - “myanpao”. In northern China, fur coats (“qiu”) made of goat, dog or monkey fur protected from the cold. Fur coats for the nobility were made of sable or fox fur, and silk embroidered robes were worn over them. Fur coats made of karakul were most valued.
The ancient Chinese wrapped the lower part of the torso with a piece of cloth - this upper waist garment was called "shan". The shan was fastened at the waist with a belt - cloth ("nude") or leather ("gedai"), and a "show" was attached to the side or back - colored cords with jade decorations tied into a net. In ancient times, the belt was the most important attribute of the costume. Strictly defined objects were hung from it: a knife, a steel, an archery ring, a needle for unraveling the memorable knots of the show. Later, these items turned into jewelry, to which decorative jade pendants - "peiyu" were added.
A suit of upper shoulder clothing (“i”) and upper waist clothing (“shan”) was called “ishan”. A red, richly decorated apron, necessary for sacrifices, was put on the front of the ishan.
The shape, color, ornament of the ancient Chinese costume were symbolic. Its upper part (“and”), red-black, was considered male (symbol of Father-Heaven), lower (“shan”), yellow, - female (symbol of Mother Earth).
Later, the structure of clothing was simplified, and a plain dressing gown replaced the dress. The emperor wore a yellow robe, which symbolized his power over the earth.
The decorative images on the everyday clothes of the Chinese also had a symbolic meaning. Men's sweaters and bathrobes were often decorated with the hieroglyphs "longevity". Often such a hieroglyph was bordered by a ring of five bats: the words "bat" and "happiness" sound the same in Chinese.

Women costume

Women in China, like men, wore long shirts and wide trousers, hidden under outerwear. The upper suit "ishan" was also similar to a man's.
Only in the Tang era did Chinese women change into jackets and skirts similar to European ones. On the hips of these skirts were triangular cutouts through which the fabric of the jacket was visible.
Women's outfits differed from men's mainly in the exceptional beauty of embroidered color patterns. Usually these patterns were enclosed in decorative circles - "tuan". All images in "tuan" were deeply symbolic. Plum and narcissus flowers personified winter, peony - spring, lotus - summer and sun, chrysanthemums - autumn. The image of a butterfly, a symbol of family happiness, was common. Marital happiness was personified by a pair of mandarin ducks. Finally, "tuani" could be plot: they embroidered girls and young men, old people and babies, elegant pavilions, scenes illustrating famous literary works.

On a man: bottom robe with slits and top with embroidery, belt with fringe

On the woman: embroidered underwear and silk outer jacket

On a woman: a silk overcoat with a false collar

On the man: a double garment with an overlaid embroidered collar and a distinguishing biji badge

Hairstyles and headwear

The ancient Chinese did not cut their hair, but collected it in a tight knot - “zi” - and laid it on the crown of the head, securing it with a hairpin. Above the forehead, at the temples and at the back of the head, the hair was carefully smoothed. After the capture of China by the Manchus, all Chinese men were forced to shave the front of the head, and braid the rest of the hair at the back of the head. This hairstyle has become a kind of symbol of the oppression of the Chinese people, so the participants in the uprisings cut off the braid.
The headdresses of Chinese men were varied. Etiquette required that the head should always be covered.
Underage boys wore small metal caps. For noble youths, these caps could be gold, adorned with precious stones. Upon reaching the age of majority (twenty years old), a ritual of putting on a hat - “guanli” was performed.
The Chinese emperor wore a headdress called "mian". It could be worn by other noble persons during the performance of sacred rituals. The design of the mian was very complex, and all its details had a symbolic meaning.
At the heart of all women's hairstyles was a knot. Hairstyles were complex, but light and graceful. They were styled from straight hair with several partings, symmetrical hair loops, rollers. To keep the hair loops well, they were smeared with adhesive compounds and wound on velvet rollers. Bunches, which were high loops, were fixed in hairstyles on the crown or on the back of the head. Each hairstyle had two or three buns. From the temples, the hair was combed up, and the forehead was framed by a short, sparse bang. There were other options for women's hairstyles, without bangs, with long straight strands descending from the temples, with paired jewelry attached.
Noble ladies wore wigs.
Before the wedding, the bride's hair was braided or twisted into a bundle and strengthened on the crown of her head with two large hairpins crosswise. During the wedding, the bride's forehead was cut with a straight bang, and at the temples the hair was cut at an angle.
Chinese women did not wear headdresses. Only at weddings and on the most solemn occasions did they wear a complex headdress - "fengguan".

Hanfu ( 漢服 ) - Chinese traditional costumes. However, in China itself, it is worn only during solemn ceremonies or used in historical films. But there are also cultural societies in China and abroad that devote their energies to the revival of Hanfu, this phenomenon is called "Hanfu Fuxing" (漢服復興 ).

Classic hanfu is a knee-length overshirt "AND" ( 衣 ) with wide or narrow sleeves, and a skirt that widens to the bottom "Chan" ( 裳 ) . Under "I" put on underwearZhongyi (中衣 ) And Zhongchang ( 中 裳 ) from cotton or silk.

The male version is called "Shenyi" ( 深衣 ) or " Zhiju" ( 直裾 ) , and female "Quju" ( 曲裾 ). It was this costume that served as the prototype of the Japanese kimono.

The ancient Chinese did not cut their hair, but collected it in a tight knot - "zi" - and laid it on the crown of the head, securing it with a hairpin.

The waist was wrapped with a piece of "shan" cloth. The shan was fastened at the waist with a cloth belt ("nude") or leather ("gedai"), and a "show" was attached to the side or back - colored cords with jade decorations tied into a net. In ancient times, the belt was considered the most important attribute of the Chinese national costume. Strictly defined objects were hung from it: a knife, a steel, an archery ring, a needle for unraveling the memorable knots of the show. Later, these items were turned into jewelry, to which decorative jade pendants "peiyu" were added.

Qunchang ( 裙 裳 ) - a kind of hanfuof silk or damask, including Bisi ( 蔽膝 ) - a cape in the form of an apron.

General characteristics of the hanfu: cross collar (交領 ) and right lapel (右衽 , wrapping clothes to the right). It was believed that only barbarians plowed on the left side. The sleeves were wide (the average sleeve width was 240 centimeters). During work, the sleeves were tied with a special ribbon that crossed over the chest.

During the Zhou Dynasty, there was a strict hierarchical order, and clothing became an indicator of social status: people differed by the width of their sleeves., skirt length and embellishment.

The colors in the costume were also regulated by rank: the imperial family - yellow, soldiers - white, red; young warriors - blue, dignitaries - brown.

Women's outfits differed from men's mainly in the exceptional beauty of embroidered color patterns. Usually these patterns were enclosed in decorative circles - "tuan". All images in "tuan" were deeply symbolic.The largest place in China was given to the image of a peach - a symbol of longevity, the hieroglyph of an orchid - a symbol of learning, a peony flower - a symbol of wealth. Flowers also symbolized the seasons and could take place on seasonal clothes: wild plum - winter, peony - spring, lotus - summer, chrysanthemum - autumn.

Bright blue was considered a talisman against black magic and the evil eye.

The green color is associated with the tree and the east - the birthplace of a young day.

Men's jackets and robes were often decorated with the hieroglyphs "longevity". Often such a hieroglyph was bordered by a ring of five bats: the words "bat" and "happiness" sound the same in Chinese.

Ruqun ( 襦裙 ) - a short jacket with a long skirt (above the chest). It looks like a dress for a woman, like a sundress with long sleeves and a cape-scarf or a light robe.

There is a subspecies of Zhutsun, both with and without a jacket, with additional fitting, has many options:

Shangqun (衫裙 ) - long to the waist jacket with a skirt. The skirt can be both wide and narrow.

There are many options for the top shirt:

In northern China, fur coats "qiu" made of goat, dog or monkey fur protected from the cold. Fur coats for the nobility were made of sable or fox fur, and silk embroidered robes were put on top. Fur coats made of karakul were most valued.

Long shirt/shirt-robe, with narrow sleeves, is called "Pao" ( 袍 ). He painted very richly for the nobility. The light version may not have had a collar.

In winter, the Chinese wore several robes or lined clothes at once - "Jiapao" or "Mianpao" wadded robe.

Changshan (Chengsam) ( 長衫 ) - a wide dress based on pao, completely hiding the figure and leaving only the head, palms and toes of the shoes visible. In 1636, an imperial decree was issued, according to which all Chinese women belonging to this estate were to wear it. In 1644, the Manchus relaxed this requirement, but the Changshan had already become popular. (You can see this dress in "Kill Bill" at the closest friend of Oren Ishii).